When I think about timeless watchmaking, the sort of design that is eternally beautiful and relevant, I think of the classical designs of the mid-century. 1950s timepieces are modest in their form, but exudes individuality in its details.
From a distance, the new Louis Vuitton Escale could be mistaken for a rather generic case design. But don’t be fooled, if you examine the details they will recount the genesis of the brand. With its founding roots in trunk-making since 1854, Louis Vuitton today is one of the largest names in the fashion world, and beyond. Their iconic rivet brackets appear to hold the lugs to the mid-case, a clever nod to their trunk-making heritage.
The same design element is also found as quarter markers on the dial. They break up the dial visually into four quarters, achieving the same effect as crosshair dials and sector dials of the 1950s and 60s. The markers on the dial are incredibly detailed in both their shape and finishing, in line with the focus on subtle details as opposed to flamboyant forms.
Despite the parallels with mid-century watch designs, the new Escale is objectively a modern watch in its construction and quality. It is sized with a 39mm case, which is certain to get collectors very excited. The proportions are near perfect, but somehow feels thicker compared to the sportier Tambour despite both powered by the same calibre.
As a canvas, the new time-only Escale is a versatile medium of expression and that versatility is exhibited in the variants. The most modest being a pink gold case paired with a grained silver dial, modest but classically beautiful.
A more striking variant has an enchanting blue dial, surrounded by a silver chapter ring.
The most expressive has to be the platinum variant with meteorite dial.
The automatic calibre LFT023 has a modern architecture and executed in advanced techniques and styles that are not commonplace. The frosted bridges are executed in relief, including the engravings. This style of finishing is quite innovative, and resonates with the disruptive creativity of the brand. Despite its unconventional aesthetics, the overall execution is still elegant enough to fit into the timeless nature of the watch. The micro-rotor is the star of the case-back, and is beautifully decorated with the Maison’s monogram.
These new time-only Escale will no doubt serve as a canvas for more modest executions of the horological signatures of Louis Vuitton watchmaking. Just imagine a classical interpretation of the Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon in an Escale case. By now it should be obvious that I’m a big fan of mid-century watchmaking, and long time admirer of the expertise and capabilities of Michel Navas and his team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, so I’m very excited to see Louis Vuitton take on a dressy and classical genre, with their unique brand of creative flair.
The brand has recently did what seems like a back-to-basics move, in favour of more subdued and considered designs. Last year saw the announcement of the Tambour, Louis Vuitton’s contender in the genre of 1970s sports chic watch. Escale is yet another retrospectively styled family. Both lines will no doubt give the brand a very firm foundation to rebuild its product line.
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