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Louis Vuitton was founded in Paris in 1854, as a trunk-maker. 170 years later today, it is the largest brand and conglomerate in the luxury scene, with many innovative and heritage watch brands under its group umbrella. At the top is La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), an in-house manufacture that combines virtuoso and innovative savoir-faire to create exceptional timepieces — a symbol of continually reinvented creative audacity. Despite the massive global impact of the LV brand as a whole, its watchmaking approach is one of quality over quantity with a sharp focus on the high-end. We speak with one of the founders of LFT, master-watchmaker Michel Navas.
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Tom: What are some of the qualities of traditional high watchmaking that Louis Vuitton seeks to preserve and innovate on?
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT) counts incredible talents and craftsmen among its watchmakers, with some rare crafts, ingenuity, and a very strong expertise. This, combined with the rich history of the Maison allows us to create timepieces that truly tell a story. We are still young in the watch industry, so we have the possibility to be more audacious than other traditional brands. We have developed a lot of complications as the Automata, the Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève, the Spin Time, The Heure Sautante and so much more.
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At Louis Vuitton, one watchmaker is responsible for the entire production of the high watchmaking piece, from the beginning to the end. It’s a pledge of quality for the customer. In that sense, every watch can be considered as unique because it’s handmade by one watchmaker.
Tom: How do you infuse the vision and DNA of Louis Vuitton into your creations?
As you probably know the heritage of Louis Vuitton is very closely linked to travel since the beginning with trunks. Our slogan “The Art of Travel” is also closely related to watches. Therefore, we wanted to find this spirit into each of our watchmaking creation. Very often our timepieces are equipped with a second time zone because it is made for travelers, and it is the DNA of Louis Vuitton.
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We have also developed a Worldtime watch with 24 different time zones and also a Minute Repeater which strikes home-time when the traveler is away from home. These perspectives make Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking innovative and unique.
Tom: What are some watchmaking techniques that are unique to Louis Vuitton /LFT?
We gathered different techniques of Métiers d’art under the same roof like marquetry, miniature painting, engraving… all of this with artisans that are passionate about what they do.
Sometimes and especially on high watchmaking pieces, all these savoir-faire are gathered on a same piece, meaning the artisans work consecutively on the piece. The three Escale Cabinet of Wonders are the testimony of that. All these artistic crafts are precious and essential for the creation of watchmaking. Our desire is to protect this rare know-how and to gather these savoir-faire into our manufacture.
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Tom: Please share with us the reasons behind your fascination with the jumping hours display?
I think this is the sincerity of watchmaking. I have a fascination how to display the time differently. In addition, the jump-hour is quite poetic and very “LV” with the Vivienne and her journeys.
In addition to being very playful and bring happiness, the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hour has two jumping displays instead of one. The goal was to make it as simple to read as possible, while the mechanisms behind the dial were unfathomably complex.
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Tom: Why do you feel traditional complications like the minute repeater or Tourbillon are still relevant today?
Of course! These complications are the trophies of high watchmaking and it is very important to continue to develop them. Also, collectors are looking for exactly this kind of marvellous rarities. At LFT we also try to push the boundaries while preserving these savoir-faire.
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Tom: For a creative Maison like Louis Vuitton, how do you see the future of horology evolve?
Today, the industry is witnessing a trend of elegant and thinner watches than before and brands must demonstrate great creativity to satisfy customers. While always keeping in mind this immense respect for beautiful watchmaking particularly in terms of finishing and reliability.
For us at Louis Vuitton, we like to keep high watchmaking very confidential, with only few pieces and super-high craftsmanship. We can achieve this with our integrated manufacture.
You know nothing is off limits when it comes to watchmaking for Louis Vuitton.
-FIN-
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