The King of Diamonds
Today, Harry Winston isn’t the first name that comes to mind when discussing watchmaking. But it is a name that is sure to be mentioned when talking about the rise of artisanal independent watchmaking that forged the scene we know and love today. How is it that an American jewellery brand, known around the world as the “King of Diamonds”, had a part to play in the popularisation of independent watchmaking?
Let me set the stage for you. Harry Winston was founded in 1932, and built a reputation as New York’s pre-eminent high-jewellery house. The brand was celebrated for world-class diamonds, daring stone-setting and a flair for theatre. Its Fifth Avenue salon became shorthand for glamour and architectural poise. That identity — American, design-driven, unapologetically theatrical — gave the brand a distinct voice when it stepped into a field dominated by sober Swiss classicism.
Horological Premier
Why watches, and why then? By the late 1980s, clients wanted the maison’s eye for proportion and drama translated into horological art. Obviously the Swiss watch industry is an incredibly difficult one to break into, with high barriers to entry, especially back then. However, the quartz crisis had come to an end and the market had developed a newfound appetite for complication watchmaking again. Under Ronald Winston’s leadership, the house did not dip its toes, and with its first attempt at watchmaking it set its sights on the highest echelons.
HW Premier Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Harry Winston’s 1989 debut arrived as the Premier line with a ground-breaking bi-retrograde perpetual calendar, jointly developed by master watchmakers Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Perpetual calendars have been around for centuries at this point; however, their layouts were rarely innovative. Harry Winston’s first move set the tone for what was to come:
A collaborative spirit and an unconventional approach to reinvent horology every chance it got.
The Premier collection also set a visual grammar that was recognised instantly — sculptural cases and the triple arches at 12 and 6 (a stylised echo of the Fifth Avenue façade), and articulated lugs that adjust to the movement of the wearer’s wrist. Innovation was the focus, in concept, in the technicals, and in design.
The Büsser Era
Enter Maximilian Büsser, who joined Jaeger-LeCoultre at the age of 24, fresh out of university. It was his first exposure to the watch industry, and in his seven years with the brand he proved himself to be a visionary and out-of-the-box thinker. In 1998, he was approached to lead Harry Winston’s watchmaking division as CEO at just 31 years old.
With Max at the helm, Harry Winston Timepieces doubled down on their unique maker-led philosophy. Most famously, he kick-started the most audacious series the watch world had ever seen.
The concept was simple, but revolutionary at the time: each year a new independent watchmaker, each year a watch unlike anything before.
The focus was squarely on collaboration and the limitless synergy it unleashed.
Probably the maddest Opus creation with a story to boot: the legendary Opus 3 as conceptualised by Vianney Halter.
The now-legendary Opus collaborations began with F.P. Journe (Opus 1), Antoine Preziuso (Opus 2), Vianney Halter (Opus 3), Christophe Claret (Opus 4), Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) (Opus 5) — cementing Harry Winston as the jeweller that invited the avant-garde onto a global stage. Max left Harry Winston in 2005 to start MB&F with the same focus on the synergy in collaborations between Maximilian Büsser & Friends.
Collectors' Sentiments
The genesis of Harry Winston’s watchmaking story had a multitude of unusual perspectives, and over time these creations have aged beautifully. Production was modest, details are rich, and for years many references flew under the radar while attention clustered around steel sports icons. Look closely and you get architecture with character — playful displays, shaped movements, sculptural cases — wrapped in unmistakable Harry Winston codes.
Five collectors, five stories.
This feature gathers five such pieces from Singapore Watch Club members, and through their owners’ voices, we trace how a New York jeweller carved out a distinctive place in Swiss watchmaking, and why these early pieces speak so clearly to collectors today.
Norman Seck's Premier Excenter Bi-Directional Seconds — Pink Gold, 2001
This timepiece features the most unusual seconds indications. At first glance commonly mistaken for a retrograde seconds hand, the hand actually sweeps back and forth rather than snapping back. It sweeps from 0–30, then changes direction and sweeps back up 30–60. The Excenter sub-line of the Premier family also places the time-telling dials offset, which in this case give added prominence to this extraordinary seconds indication.
“Even today, the early Harry Winston timepieces still feel ahead of their time.” - Norman Seck
Its owner Norman first uncovered Harry Winston through reading about independent watchmaking and discovering the Opus series — a major brand inviting independents to collaborate changed his perception of what Harry Winston could be. “I told myself: someday I need to get one,” he recalls. When he encountered this pink gold Premier Excenter, the attraction was immediate: “Visually, it was love at first sight… the asymmetrical off-centre dial and the unique sweeping up-and-down seconds hand sealed the deal.” He wears it frequently — to work, casual drinks, and collector meet-ups — and it’s always a conversation starter. For him, draw of early Harry Winston is driven by technical and design innovation: “Even today, the early Harry Winston timepieces still feel ahead of their time.”
Hosan Swee’s Premier Excenter Peter Speake-Marin Tourbillon — Pink Gold, 2005
Another fine specimen of collaboration with a prominent figure in the independent watchmaking space: the Excenter Tourbillon from 2005 was made by English watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin. It features a long power reserve of 110 hours, and has that information displayed via three separate indicators. There are two on the back, working sequentially: one for 0–55 hours and the other 55–110. The third indicator is a hidden one on the dial side of the watch. The “HW” signature that sits above the tourbillon doubles as a visual reminder for its owner to wind up the movement, turning from gold to red when the mainspring enters its final 24 hours.
Twin sequential power reserve indicators on the back, and a third one hidden on the dial.
“HW’s early-2000s creations were serious horological statements that flew under the radar while everyone chased the usual suspects.” - Hosan Swee
For its owner, Hosan, the first hook was its design: “The unique scalloped lugs immediately caught my attention — they’re incredibly distinctive and architectural.” A detail he loves is how the movement looks like it’s inverted, with Côtes de Genève on the dial side. As collectors move away from typical hype towards differentiation, he sees early Harry Winston pieces gaining deserved attention: the brand’s strong Opus run lends provenance, and the early-2000s creations were “serious horological statements that flew under the radar while everyone chased the usual suspects.”
The Authors’s Avenue C Jumping Hours — Pink Gold, 2004
The only watch of the quintet not in the round Premier case, the Avenue line is Harry Winston’s interpretation of a rectangular watch in their signature style. You can observe the design parallels with its Premier siblings, especially in the lugs. The form of the watch is also more organic, with its curved profile that adds to ergonomics as it sits on the wrist. It takes on a regulator style layout, infused with a jumping-hour indication. It is manual-winding and powered by a tonneau-shaped movement — subtle features that appeal to enthusiasts.
I am a devotee of jumping hours and shaped cases with shaped movements so this watch is totally my cup of tea. And to be honest, I didn’t even know this ref. existed so it kinda feels like the watch found me. With only 25 examples made, securing it felt serendipitous. I think interest in early Harry Winston is rising because the watches remain undervalued and genuinely ground-breaking. They were born out of a desire to be different, and will never apologise for it. That's what I love.
Marko Koncina’s Premier Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar 20th Anniversary — Platinum, 2009
To honour the ground-breaking watch that kick-started the brand’s watchmaking efforts, a 20th-anniversary edition came in 2009. It featured a platinum case, and the bi-retrograde sub-dials were opened to showcase the work of Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht two decades ago. Only 25 examples were made to commemorate the milestone.
“I love the ingenuity, free spirit, and complexity of these early HW watches.” - Marko Koncina
Marko’s appreciation for Harry Winston followed his immersion in independents at a time when they lacked big platforms; discovering the Opus series, he loved the ingenuity, free spirit and complexity on show. The platinum 20th-anniversary bi-retrograde perpetual ticked every box for him — iconic case linked to the Opus era, complex movement, white metal, and a semi-open dial bridging powerhouse and independent craft.
The man behind Swiss Watch Gang wore it heavily at first, finding it comfortable, distinctive and under the radar, but now he saves it for special occasions. “If it were more sporty and water-resistant, I’d probably wear it every day!”
Tan Jiahui’s Premier Chronograph “Caduceus” — Platinum, 1990s
The earliest example of the five, this chronograph is powered by the trusty Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185, first introduced in 1988. What is distinctive about it is the Caduceus symbol of medicine on its dial, and a pulsation scale instead of the more common tachymeter or telemeter scales.
“These early HW models are rare, eccentric, and quietly confident. Appreciation is definitely growing.” - Tan Jiahui
Jiahui once thought Harry Winston was only glamour and diamonds until the early watches revealed how the brand blurred jewel and instrument. When asked what drew him to his Premier Chronograph: “The sunburst dial with a Caduceus at 12 and pulsation scale makes it a true doctor’s chronograph and I found that to be refreshing and charming.” While Jiahui is neither a doctor nor a medical professional, he wears the watch when the occasion calls for a reminder that even timelines have a heartbeat. It’s half timekeeper, half conversation starter. “I call it the ‘Deadline Doctor’ — helpful for checking my pulse as I chase timelines,” he jokes.
Conclusion
Today’s watch-collecting scene can feel dominated by commoditisation and consumerism, driven by social-media hype and products designed to maximise sales. The innovative spirit and value proposition of early Harry Winston timepieces remind us that there are still underappreciated creations from the past waiting to be rediscovered. We hope this story encourages you to seek out watches that are distinctive without shouting, technically unconventional, and built with a level of craftsmanship that rewards the time spent hunting them down. Most importantly, choose a timepiece that puts a smile on your face every time you strap it on your wrist.
-FIN-