Hands On: 2025 Novelty Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

Thirteen days into 2025, and Vacheron Constantin makes the first move in the name of their 270th anniversary. The festivities begin with the reissue of a legendary timepiece that has been eagerly anticipated by the watch world—the Historiques 222, now presented in stainless steel.

The Deal with Steel

Originally launched in 1977, the 222 was Vacheron Constantin’s response to a burgeoning trend for “sports” watches that complemented more active lifestyles. The term "sports" is used loosely here; it didn’t imply suitability for specialized athletic pursuits. Instead, it represented a departure from traditional dress watches that dominated the era. These formal timepieces, often paired with leather straps, were ideal for office wear but less versatile for social gatherings or casual outings.

The 1970s saw the emergence of a new genre of watches with integrated bracelets, creating a cohesive design language that prepared wearers for activities both wet and dry. Steel became a defining characteristic of this category, breaking away from the tradition of using only precious metals. At the time, steel was considered too utilitarian to house high-end movements. However, this perception began to shift as brands infused intricate detailing into steel cases and bracelets, elevating the material to a new level of sophistication.

222 Anniversary and Design

Designed by a young Jorg Hysek, the 222 debuted in 1977 to commemorate Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd anniversary. Its futuristic design captured the spirit of the era and introduced three defining features: the scalloped bezel, a polygonal bracelet, and the Maltese cross motif subtly placed on the lower right lug of the case.

A standout feature of the original 222 was its monobloc case design, where the screw-down bezel served as the sole access point. This construction enhanced water resistance and was accompanied by a special tool for unscrewing the bezel, included in the original set.

The 222 is an incredibly restrained design. Compared with offerings from direct competitors in the 70s design sports watch space, the 222 is the least showy of the bunch. Most of its surfaces are satin brushed, with high polished edges reserved for only to outline major geometric design details like its round bezel, tonneau case, and hexagonal centre links.

The 2022 Reissue

After being discontinued for four decades, the 222 made a triumphant return in 2022 with a yellow gold iteration (ref. 4200H). Faithful to the original’s design and proportions, this reissue retained the classic 37mm size, which, though nicknamed “Jumbo” in the ’70s, feels modest by today’s standards.

Despite its nostalgic appearance, the 4200H introduced several modern upgrades. The date display was repositioned for improved legibility, and the bracelet was reengineered for smoother articulation and enhanced wearing comfort. These refinements elevated the 222’s wearability while preserving its vintage charm.

Back in Steel

Since the 222’s revival in 2022, speculation has been rife about a return to its original steel configuration. As part of its 270th anniversary celebrations, Vacheron Constantin has answered the call with the introduction of the Historiques 222 in stainless steel (ref. 4200H/222A-B934).

The new model features a rich blue dial, perfectly complementing the casual elegance of its steel case. Lighter than its gold counterpart, this iteration offers enhanced wearability for everyday use. Priced at SGD 46,100 (approximately USD 32,000), it costs less than half of the yellow gold version, making it an enticing option for collectors.

Given its competitive pricing and timeless design, the steel 222 is poised to be an instant success, further solidifying its place in the pantheon of iconic sports watches.

TECHNICAL DATA - Historiques 222