It began with a question: what would happen if a cockpit instrument became a wristwatch? That thought, back in 2005, gave rise to the BR-01: a square case framing a circle, a design where form was dictated entirely by function. Radical at the time, it would go on to define Bell & Ross for the next twenty years.

As the brand marks two decades of its round-in-square icon, that language has evolved — from flight decks to city streets, from professional tools to everyday companions. Yet the driving force remains unchanged: clarity, sincerity, and purpose.

We sit down with Carlos Rosillo, co-founder and CEO, to discuss how design, engineering and philosophy have shaped Bell & Ross’s journey — and where the next chapter might lead.

Carlos Rosillo and the original BR-01 design from 2005.

TC: Two decades on, what exactly are you celebrating about the circle-in-square — its origin, or its evolution?

CR: We’re celebrating both the bold origin and the remarkable evolution of the round-in-square design. When we introduced it with the BR-01, it was a disruptive idea, directly inspired by aircraft cockpit instruments where function dictates form. That perfect round dial inside a square case became our signature — instantly recognisable, deeply rooted in aviation, and unmistakably Bell & Ross.

What we’re most proud of is how that form has matured. Over the years, we’ve refined it across sizes, complications and materials — ceramic, bronze, carbon, titanium — while always respecting its professional DNA. The design has since moved beyond the cockpit into urban life with the BR-05, proving that a tool watch can be reimagined for modern city wear without losing its edge.

BR-03 Gyrocompass Special Edition from 2023.

The latest chapter in that journey is the new 36 mm BR-05, a more refined and versatile expression of the line, joining the 40 mm automatic, 41 mm GMT and 42 mm chronograph models.

Looking ahead, it’s all about innovation without compromise. We’re exploring new materials, advanced movements and intelligent integrations, while preserving that unmistakable silhouette.

"The round-in-square isn’t just a design — it’s a philosophy. And its story is far from over."

BR-05 Collection: 40 mm automatic, 41 mm GMT and 42 mm Chronograph.

TC: After twenty bold years, what must never change at Bell & Ross — and what absolutely must?

CR: What must never change is the spirit that started it all. When we founded Bell & Ross, our goal wasn’t to make fashionable watches — it was to build instruments that people could rely on.

"That sincerity, that sense of doing something useful and honest, is what still drives us."

What must change is how we keep that spirit alive. Watchmaking, materials, even how people wear watches — everything evolves. The challenge is to adapt without losing our centre.

In the end, I believe a brand stays relevant by knowing what to hold on to and what to let go of. That’s what keeps Bell & Ross alive after twenty years — and what will carry us into the next twenty.

Carlos wears the BR-X5 in stainless steel.

TC: Legibility is in your DNA. How do you skeletonise an “instrument” without sacrificing at-a-glance readability?

CR: At Bell & Ross, legibility isn’t just a design preference — it’s a core principle rooted in our aviation heritage. When we approach skeletonisation, we see it not as decoration but as a technical challenge: how to reveal the mechanics without compromising the watch’s function as a precision instrument.

The goal is never to make a watch lighter or flashier, but to re-engineer visibility through transparency. Every cut-out and finish is carefully considered to ensure clarity remains uncompromised. Even when the movement is on full display, the reading of time must stay immediate and intuitive.

In the end, skeletonisation for Bell & Ross is an exercise in precision — one that stays true to our mission of making function visible.

The 2025 BR-03 Skeleton in black ceramic.

TC: Since the BR-X5, you’ve had access to higher-spec movements. How do you decide where manufacture-grade calibres belong versus proven third-party engines?

CR: The launch of the BR-X5 in 2022, followed by the BR-X3 this year, marked a new chapter for Bell & Ross. It gave us access to manufacture-grade movements developed in partnership with Kenissi — calibres that deliver outstanding chronometric precision, extended power reserves, and exceptional reliability. They’re ideal for collections that embody our highest standards of technical performance and finishing.

That said, proven third-party movements continue to play an important role. They offer reliability, ease of servicing worldwide, and allow us to maintain accessible price points for many of our core models — especially those designed as professional tools.

BR-X5 and BR-X3: Both powered by the BR-CAL.323, a Kenissi-manufacture movement.

Ultimately, the choice of movement depends on the purpose of the watch. When a model represents the pinnacle of Bell & Ross innovation and craftsmanship, as with the BR-X5 or BR-X3, it deserves a calibre that reflects that ambition. For rugged, functional pieces, a tried-and-tested movement remains the smartest and most honest choice. It’s never a hierarchy — simply the right engine for the right instrument.

TC: Your urban collection has been trending more compact and unisex. What feedback or data convinced you to go smaller, and for whom was that decision made?

CR: We’ve clearly seen a growing preference for more compact, unisex timepieces, especially in urban contexts. This trend is guided by both market data and direct feedback from our clients. Many of them, regardless of gender, are looking for watches that combine comfort, versatility and understated elegance.

The decision to introduce a 36 mm version of the BR-05 came in response to that demand. It offers a refined alternative for those who love the BR-05’s urban spirit but prefer a slimmer, more discreet size.

In essence, it’s about adapting proportions without diluting character. The BR-05 remains unmistakably Bell & Ross — contemporary, confident, and built for modern city life.

TC: Tool cred versus city chic: how do you keep the cockpit DNA authentic while growing the integrated-bracelet audience?

CR: That balance has always defined Bell & Ross. We began with professional instruments built for pilots and divers — watches that had to perform under real conditions. Over time, our audience expanded, but the mindset never changed.

When we designed the BR-05, we wanted to translate that same sense of purpose into something you could wear every day. The integrated bracelet gave us a new language: solid, sculptural, and comfortable, yet still unmistakably Bell & Ross.

I don’t see it as two worlds colliding, but as one idea expressed in different environments. Whether in a cockpit or a city, the goal is the same — to create a watch that feels natural, confident, and true to its origins.

The 2025 BR-03 Skeleton in stainless steel.

TC: What internal test must a limited edition pass to justify its existence — mission need, material innovation, or long-term collectability?

CR: For Bell & Ross, every limited edition must have a clear reason to exist. Whether it serves a specific professional purpose, explores new materials, or marks a milestone worthy of long-term collectability, the watch must embody authenticity and intent.

"It’s never about exclusivity for exclusivity's sake, but about telling a story that resonates with our heritage and community."

Each project is evaluated on how meaningfully it contributes — whether through technical innovation, a tribute to aviation history, or a design evolution that stands the test of time.

Ultimately, a limited edition must earn its place within the Bell & Ross story — one defined by purpose, precision, and authenticity.

The author's BELL & ROSS × ALAIN SILBERSTEIN BR 03-94 KRONO 22: a limited edition made for Grail Watch in 2023.

TC: Partnerships: post-F1, what types of collaborations best express Bell & Ross today — pure aviation units, rescue and military briefs, or broader cultural tie-ins?

CR: The most meaningful collaborations are those that make sense within our world — projects that highlight expertise, precision under pressure, and real purpose. Whether we’re working with aviation units, rescue teams or creative partners, it’s about finding people who share the same spirit of commitment and excellence.

We don’t collaborate just for visibility. Each partnership should add something genuine to the Bell & Ross story, offering a new way to express what we do best: designing instruments for professionals and for those who live with the same mindset.

-FIN-